
There exist ancient rock edifices in Korea, Jordan and no doubt, in many other places around the world. In Ethiopia itself, there are over 50 different regions where rock churches can be found – stretching as far south as Goba (bale) and as far west as Bonga (Keffa). In Tigray region alone, there are over 100 rock churches.
Hundreds of miles to the south and east of Axum is another ancient settlement, Lalibela, is a city carved from legend - a mediaeval settlement in the Lasta area of Wollo that is the site of eleven remarkable rock-hewn monolithic churches believed to have been built by King Lalibela in the late 12th or early 13th century. These notable structures are carved inside and outside of the solid rock, and are considered among the wonders of the world. Each building is architecturally unique, and several of them are decorating with fascinating rock paintings. The unadulterated biblical atmosphere and vivid local color of the Timket celebrations provide an ideal opportunity to see Lalibela as a sacred center whose roots go back to man’s very early years.
Lalibela has the highest concentration of churches of such architectural elegance and overall engineering sophistication in one spot. Their lighting systems, channels, water works, network of interconnected subterranean passageways and the sheer magnitude of the whole project are mind boggling – just the excavated material is estimated to be enough to make 10 of the Great Pyramid of Egypt. The churches are attributed to King Lalibela (ca 1200 AD) who was later canonized by the Ethiopian church and is referred to by Europeans as the legendary Prester John. Their impact is so great that the first Europeans as the legendary Prester John. Their impact is so great that the first European to see them, the Portuguese Priest Father Francisco Alvarez, despaired of being believed by his compatriots and cut short his report.
Anointed king under the throne name Gebre Meskel (servant of the cross), King Lalibela is said to have taken 24 years to construct these churches. There are three different types of churches:
- 1.Built-up cave churches: ordinary structure built inside a natural cave. Makina Medhane Alem and Yemrehanna Kristos near Lalibela are good examples.
- 2.Rock-hewn cave churches: carved inwards from a cliff face and sometimes making use of and widening an already existing cave. Aba Libanos, Bete Meskel and Bete Denagil in Lalibela belong to this group.
- 3.Rock-hewn monolithic churches: hollowed in the ground, cut out in one piece from the rock and separated from it all round by a trench except at theirBete Medhane Alem, Bete Mariam, Bete Emmanuel and the cruciform Bete Giorgis are Lalibela’s outstanding monolithic masterpieces.
Genete Mariam (the paradise of Mary): interestingly enough most of the Lalibela churches are hidden in their pits and invisible until one comes directly next to them. By contrast the monolithic Genete Mariam stands out in the midst of the green clump of euphorbia as a massive block of pink tuff. Also unlike most of the Lalibela churches, its rich painting displays a style that is characterized as “arcaic” (10th century perhaps) with an eclectic array of motifs alluding to both Eastern and Western traditions.
Yimrehanna Kristos (Christ show us the way): This exquisite church, a masterpiece of Axumite wood and stone (so-called sandwich style) construction is renowned for its interior decoration, its beautiful wooden coffer ceiling inlaid with hexagons and medallions with both figurative and geometric motifs. The founder of the church, King Yimrehanna Kirstos, was the predecessor of King Lalibela. The church is located six hours away by foot and mule on the mountain ridge with peak Abune Yosef peering in the sky to the northeast of the town Lalibela.
Naakute Laab Church: In 1270 AD King Naakute Laab of the Zagwe dynasty of Lalibela, at the behest of the influential monk (later saint) Tekle Haimanot, abdicated in favor of Emperor Yekuno Amlak belonging to the Solomonic dynasty. The church in a cave where Naakute Laab went to lead a hermit’s life is a charming place in a dramatic setting. The church has one of the most interesting collections of ancient crosses, illustrated manuscripts and other icons, some of which are attributed to its founder Naakute Laab.
Mekane Medhane Alem: This is another interesting case of an Axumite style church in a cave. It is east of Lalibela (two hours climb above Genee Mariam) on the eastern slopes of Mount Makina, another spur of Abune Yosef.
The above mentioned sanctuaries happen to be the most fascinating and relatively easy to access. But, for those with time, fitness and enough interest in the subject, Lasta, the province where Lalibela is located, has many wonderful shrines in the most dramatic of settings. Some of these are:
- Asheten Mariam -hidden under the ledge in the mountain overlooking the town of Lalibela in the east.
- Abratu Enssessa – the four animals or beasts
- Bilbala Giorgis
- Bilbala Cherqos
- Sarana Michael